This article is the first in a series on a topic close to my heart. Ice fishing is deeply interwoven in the fabric of our local culture and has been enjoyed by generations of Mainers. It is a fantastic way to appreciate the great outdoors during our long winters, create lively memories for the kids, and bring home a few fish for the frying pan.
Ice fishing is a great way to spend time outdoors during winter, create lively memories for the kids and bring home a few fish for the frying pan. COURTESY PHOTO |
Like all sports, ice fishing requires some basic equipment, much of which has not changed much over the last 100 years. I describe below the main pieces of gear needed to practice this activity.
· Boots: Staying warm is fundamental to enjoy ice fishing, and boots are the most critical piece of clothing needed to reach that goal! Ice-fishing footwear must be both insulated and waterproof. It is worth spending extra to obtain high-quality boots that will reliably keep your feet warm and dry. I cannot emphasize enough the need for waterproof boots: a heavy layer of snow will weigh down on the ice, causing water to seep up through cracks and causing several inches of wet slush to form on top of the ice. Cheap boots will leak, resulting in cold feet and the quick end of a trip.
· Auger: An auger drills holes through the ice. New gasoline-powered augers cost $400-plus, whereas second-hand ones go for $200 or less. These devices work well but are heavy, noisy, and smoky. Battery-operated augers are more lightweight, silent, and efficient. New ones cost as much - if not more - than gasoline-powered devices. Pay attention to the width of the auger bit. I recommend 8 inches - or even 10 inches - wide to ensure that the largest fish will fit through the hole. Manual ice augers cost between $50 and $100 and require arm juice to turn the bit. Regardless of type, protect the auger blades at all times: dull, chipped, or kinked blades will make life miserable. Manual ice chisels called "spuds" represent the cheapest alternative (under $40) but are only practical when the ice is less than a foot thick. They also require serious muscle power!
· Tip-ups: A tip-up, aka "trap", brings the bait through the ice into the water. It uses a simple trigger mechanism to release a bright orange flag at the end of a thin, spring-loaded rod to alert the angler that a fish has taken the bait. The word "FLAG!!!" is therefore the most exciting sound on the ice! New traps cost from $10 to $40 per unit, depending on model and make. Maine allows up to five tip-ups per angler. I have purchased dozens of traps over the years and have found that taller is always better. My advice is to get "stand-up" traps instead of "lay-down" traps. The lay-downs have a vertical shaft that remains visible even with a heavy blanket of snow on the ice. The latter lay flat on the ice and are difficult to impossible to see with snow. Also, pay attention to spool size. A small spool works fine for shallow-water species, such as brook trout, pickerel, or yellow perch. A larger spool is better when fishing in deep water (for example lake trout or cusk) or targeting pelagic species (for example landlocked Atlantic salmon). I use large-spool traps for all my ice fishing.
· Braided line: New tip-ups usually come without line. A good practice is to fill the spool with braided
ice fishing line. This material comes in many colors, diameters, and prices. I recommend thicker rather than thinner braid because thin braided line easily makes knots that are a pain to undo with frozen fingers… The major advantage of braid over monofilament is that it is inflexible, which is needed when setting a hook by hand with 50-plus feet of line off the spool. However, this material is quite visible to the fish below. Therefore, attach a small barrel swivel at the end of the braided line, followed by 10 feet of 12-pound monofilament line with the hook.
· Ice chip scooper: The scooper is a simple but essential piece of kit that costs less than $20. It scoops out the chunks of ice that fill the hole after drilling, or after chipping the ice that reforms in the holes after deploying the traps. Forget the scooper and you will have to use your hands to remove those chunks. Make sure to get a scooper that has both a ruler stamped into the metal shaft and an ice chipper blade at the end of that shaft. The ruler makes it easy to measure fish, whereas the blade helps chip away at the new ice that reforms in the holes.
· Bait bucket: A bait bucket transports live bait (for example, minnows, smelts, suckers). Bait buckets come in many shapes and forms, from simple plastic buckets to insulated cooler-like contraptions. My preferred model, which costs around $20, is simple, sturdy, and practical. It consists of an inner bucket with a handle, lid, and slits at the bottom, and an outer bucket to hold the water. The water sandwiched in the one-inch space between the inner and outer bucket freezes solid to form an insulating barrier that prevents the water in the inner bucket from freezing over completely. Avoid overpriced bait buckets with battery-operated air pumps. The pumps brake, the batteries quickly run out of juice, and the airlines freeze.
· Bait net: This simple and cheap ($5) but essential tool lets you grab a baitfish without the need to plunge your bare hand into the ice-cold water of the bait bucket!
· Pack basket: The pack basket is an iconic piece of ice-fishing equipment that stores your traps, food, drink, and gear. Most baskets consist of thin woven strips of wood and come with wide shoulder straps. They are surprisingly expensive ($80 to $100-plus). If you decide to purchase one, get a tall and high-quality basket. It will cost a bit more but will last for many years, whereas the cheaper ones will quickly fall apart. A 5-gallon bucket is a low-cost alternative but lacks the shoulder straps.
· Sled: Finally, a plastic sled is needed to bring all the fishing gear, plus other items (e.g., foldable seat, extra clothing, food), out on the ice. Ice-fishing sleds made from sturdy black plastic cost between $40 and $100, depending on model and size. They are designed specifically for the purpose, with high walls and a wide base to prevent tipping. Cheaper "human" plastic sleds will do the trick but are narrower. They easily tip over, thereby spilling the content of your bait bucket…
Getting geared up is only the first step to catching fish through the ice. Stay tuned for follow-up articles in this newspaper on ice-fishing tips and tricks. Meanwhile, visit my fishing blog at www.amazingfishametric.com for more information on angling opportunities in our area. Tight lines and may many big fish bite! <
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